All Things 505

The Genizaro and us.

Having met  Señor Napoleón Suazo-Garcia, Sr. at Las Golondrinas and being extended an invitation to visit him in Abiquiú we did so.
We found him on the patio of his house/studio/gallery, located on the East side of the Plaza. Can't miss it, it is adorned with hand-painted signs. "Maps", "tourist information", "author book-signing today". He extended a warm welcome to enter and the three of us sat inside and talked.

Señor Garcia gave us a brief overview of the history of Abiquiú, sprinkled with some autobiography. He knew Georgia O'Keeffe well having worked for her for many years. We did purchase two copies of his book. A worthwhile read to learn more about the history of the area,  Señor Garcia, and the famous painter.

Señor Garcia in his studio, notice the Santos and crosses carved by him in background. 
We talked about his fruit trees, empanaditas recipes, his work, and his family. He often interrupted himself with "Do you have any questions?" He had two handmade maps, one of the village and one of the surrounding areas. He pointed out various areas of interest while giving us historical background, dos and don'ts. During one of my frequent "I did not know xxx was here" he said: "Often people come here and they want to see everything in two hours."
There is a lot more to see in the area than we knew, repeat trips will follow.

Cerro Pedernal, often painted by Georgia O'Keeffe

As we were chatting another tourist arrived, he bade us to remain seated, and he welcomed the woman with the same warmth with which he had welcomed us. It was her first visit to Abiquiú; she had "done" Santa Fe and Taos before after briefly looking around the gallery she left. She must have been one of the "two hour tourists"; she has no idea of what she missed.

Chimney Rock as seen from the road One last note about Señor Garcia, he is a warm, gentle man, truly interested in people and more than willing to share his knowledge. As a goodbye gift, he sang us an alabado "La mission", a truly moving hymn of praise.
If you are in the area pay him a visit and buy a copy of his book (more info for book at end).

Señor Garcia singing "La Mission"

Storm on Rio Chama

 

Christ in the Desert Monastery Church. It may well be the most beautiful church in New Mexico, its color blending with the cliffs behind it and those cliffs being visible from the inside.

His book was featured in the April 2009 issue of New Mexico Magazine:
"...Although Georgia O’Keeffe is one of New Mexico’s most frequently chronicled residents, rarely do we read about the iconic painter from the perspective offered in The Genizaro & The Artist." and:
"...this slender volume relates Garcia’s memories of his interactions with the artist—he did odd jobs for her, and worked as her chauffeur. He writes, “I want to tell the story of our village and how we accepted this world famous artist into our way of living. She became a ‘villager’ here. She respected our way of life and had no desire to change us as so many outsiders want to do.” This is a poignant book about a hardworking man, a simple northern New Mexico village, and the iconic artist who left her mark on them."

For copies of The Genizaro & the Artist, please contact:
Mr. Napoleon Suazo-Garcia, Sr.
P.O. Box 68
Abiquiu, NM 87510

Email: [email protected]

Las Golondrinas and other Northern New Mexico treasures.

Every year I make my pilgrimage to El Rancho de Las Golondrinas.  Las Golondrinas, a living museum just south of Santa Fe and nestled up next to La Cienega, is a colonial treasure.  The valley it was built in is full of cottonwood trees and acequias.

The Fiber Arts Festival was this weekend.  Talented artisans displayed their woven wools, felted creations, spun colorful fibers, and hand embroidered pieces of art. 

 

To say these women were talented would be an understatement.  These pieces were handloomed and then hand embroidered.

After visiting with the artisans, we made our way to Baca Plaza and Golondrinas Placita.  Museum docents were baking bread and roasting green chile in the two outdoor ovens.  The combination of baking bread and roasting green chile was overwhelming to our senses.  This was New Mexican heaven.  The ovens came complete with an altar at their base; blessings for good food.

The village meanders down a hill, past a mill and a blacksmith shop.  Productive fields line the pathway that takes visitors under elegant Cottonwoods that dropped  their fluffy stuff onto our shoulders and heads. 

A Penitente Morada sits up on a hill south of the schoolhouse.  Two ponds, dotted with colorful dragonflies and chock full of bright green frogs and huge tadpoles, surround the Big Sapello Mill. 

Morada

An operational water powered mill. Moved here from the Mora Valley.

A beatiful dragonfly

A curious frog approaches

The most fascinating encounter we had while at Los Golondrinas occurred in the chapel, located on the north side of the Golondrinas Placita.  It wasn’t the beautiful Retablos or the colonial Colcha at the altar; it was talking with one of the volunteer docents.

Meet Napoleón Suazo-Garcia, Sr. 

Mr. Suazo-Garcia is a poet, Abiquiú elder, historian, museum guide, and  a member of the Brotherhood of Light.  He has some stories to tell.  Stories about  his native Abiquiú, New Mexico, Georgia O’Keefe and the Penitentes;  as he pointed out to us Penintentes are private brotherhoods, not secret ones as many believe.  He offered to sing us an alabado, a hymn, from his chant book.  We were thrilled.  

His voice, big and beautiful, brought tears to my eyes.  This man is authentic.  Authentically New Mexican.

He is also the author of The Genizaro and the Artist, a book that tells the story of Abiquiú and its most famous resident Georgia O'Keeffe, from the viewpoint of someone that worked for her before she became famous.

Mr. Garcia invited us to come and visit him in Abiquiú, something we intend to do soon.

Sometimes the best things in life aren't things.